I had my eye on Brindille and Twig‘s zip jacket pattern for a while and as the sizing is to 6 years, its a worthwhile investment for both kids. I wanted to use this jersey but it’s too thin to be warm so I invested in some french terry as lining. The pattern isn’t lined so I had to go about construction slightly differently to how the pattern suggested.
Getting started with the zip
The pattern instructs you to attach the zip in an early stage. I followed the instructions and treated my front lining pieces as the zip placket. It’s worth noting that sewing a zip into jersey is tricky. Its best to pin the zip with the fabric relaxed and then tack. When you come to putting it through sewing machine, have the jersey underneath and the zip tape on top. If you have the jersey on top, it’s liable to stretch and you run the risk of puckers in your zip. If your zip isn’t tacked, there is the temptation to take pins out as you sew when it starts to bubble and then you end up with a bumpy zip.
Getting really annoyed with a zip in jersey!!
You have to make keep checking your waistband line across the zip is straight, not as easy as it sounds and you’ll swear alot as you unpick numerous times! Once thats all level you have to attach the zip placket or in my case, lining to back of zip. Somehow I managed to have one side longer than the other on my first attempt and I wasted an hour or so getting cross, unpicking, making a hole in the jersey and throwing it down in frustration.
Next I needed to cut down my zip as it was too long. If you just cut off the top of a zip, the pull can be pulled off and then you’re screwed, so you need stitch over the ends. I stitched a couple centimetres down the other side of the zip so that when the jacket was turned through the right way, the end would look neat and the zip pull couldn’t fall off.
The shoulders, sleeves and side seams are stitched followed by the waistband. In the instructions it tells you to fold the waistband in half lengthways and attach to outer in one go. As I’m lining my jacket, I sandwiched my waistband between the outer jersey and lining so that all seam allowances were pointing upwards into body of jacket and all raw edges are contained.
Now the cuffs are attached
Normally you would make your cuff and attach to end of sleeve but as my sleeves are lined I need to do an extra step and encase my lining seam allowance. This is the only way I can describe how to get it right. Push sleeve lining through sleeve so that both are sitting correctly as they would once finished. Tuck the seam allowances in and hold with one hand, then wriggle your other hand carefully between the layers and grab the seam allowances, you can then gently pull the seam allowances through the neck. It will look a twisted mess but you just have to trust it. After all, if you get it wrong you can always unpick it!
Once stitched you can pull it back the right way, breathe a sigh of relief and celebrate that you trusted yourself.
According to the instructions you just machine the two hood layers to the jacket neckline. With the lining this makes no difference and I included the lining in this stitching, which seals up the jacket nicely. As a nicety I cut a stripe of pink jersey to create a binding to finish the raw edges.
Once the strip was attached along the same line of stitching as the hood, I folded over the strip and tucked all the rough edges in and stitched through all layers, slipping in a name tag as I went.
Finally, I top stitched all around the edge of the the cuffs, the zip and top of waist band to meet the hood top stitching as instructed. Once it was all ironed, it was ready to go.
It’s finished, what do I think?
I like the French terry lining and jersey combo, it feels nice and snug without feeling over bulky. As the jacket is lined, I probably should’ve used something heavier for the cuffs and waistband as it feels a bit pathetic but never mind, I’m still happy with result. Its definitely a pattern for intermediate sewers, the zip is quite challenging. This is a great pattern and I definitely think I’ll get good use out of it.
Thanks for reading.