Single jet pocket

I’m making a retro jacket for Leon using Brindille and Twig‘s zip jacket pattern with French terry and sweater fabric from Frumble Fabrics.

The pockets in the pattern are curved patch pockets but I don’t like the shape, getting a nice even curve using stretch fabric is so tricky. I thought thick single jets would look really cool and sharp especially in contrast fabric.

I’ve learnt a few ways to make jets, this isn’t the conventional method but the simplest for students from my experience.

Preparation

First the pocket needs to be marked, I’ve just marked the placement freehand. I like a slight slant because its a natural angle for putting your hands in. I’ve made these pockets 9cm long and 2cm wide, this rectangle I’ve made sure is millimetre perfect and square using a ruler. To make sure the pockets are the same on each side, I’ve thread marked the shape.

To do this, place your two fronts together and loosely stitch through the pocket shape. Then you pull the fabric apart and snip the threads between the layers. Now both sides are identical.

The fabric needs to stabilised (whether its stretch fabric or not) so that it stays nice and square when you snip the opening and keeps the threads together. For this I’ve used a woven iron-on fusible tape as its got a bit more oomph and wont show on right side. What interfacing you use depends on your fabric. When I use fine fabrics, I use a really soft fusible so that it doesn’t look like cardboard. If you’re unsure, try a few samples first and see what you like best.

I’ve put the strip overlapping the edges of the marked pocket opening and also extending over the edges of my jet piece. I’ve then pressed my jet piece in half firmly. Don’t be afraid to completely slam it with steam and put your weight behind the iron.

I’ve then marked, with a fabric marker, the stitch lines on the inside of the front body piece. With the jet piece I’ve marked a line 2cm from the fold with stop marks 9cm apart. Again I’ve used my ruler to make sure its completely precise, preparation is key for a successful sharp pocket opening.

Stitching on the outside

Pin the folded jet piece onto the front of the jacket on the lower line. The raw edge needs to point towards the top. Really take the time to make sure everything is lined up. When you sew it make sure you are accurate and back tack securely at either end. If you overshoot your stop mark, you will have a wonky jet. When I did this pocket, I went slightly off and unpicked. My rule is: if you’re questioning if you should unpick and redo, there is your answer, you should!

You then stitch a piece of fabric/back of pocket bag in the self fabric on the upper line. This needs to be done with the same precision. IMPORTANT: Both lines must be exactly the same length, parallel and square.

Cutting the slit

The next scary bit is cutting through the front panel. You need to carefully cut down the middle between the two stitch lines. When you get near the ends you need to cut a triangular shape and cut really really close to the end of your stitch lines. I’ve noticed with students, they never want to cut closely and then wonder why their jets look weird. You have to be brave and snip a threads width away. This is why a secure back tack is so important.

Turning through and finishing the short edges

Now you can pull both the jet and pocket bag through the hole. The jet piece is pressed up with its seam allowance down. It should completely fill the gap you’ve cut, if you’ve been accurate. The pocket bag is pressed down and its seam allowance pressed up. The small side triangles are pressed out. Completely smack it with the iron and steam!

Finally the little triangles need to be stitched down. To do this well, tack the top of the jet piece to the body panel. It may seem like a faffy thing to do, but worth doing so that you don’t run risk of pocket being skewed. Now pull the triangles out and stitch down. This stitch line needs to join the ends of the horizontal stitch lines. If you don’t stitch right against the edge, the jet won’t be crisp and there will be weak points where you’ve snipped.

Finish the pocket bag

You don’t have to finish the edges of jersey because it doesn’t fray but it does want to curl up. I’ve overlocked the edges as a nicety and also to keep the layers flat.

Now I’m doing a bit of a hybrid. Normally you would attach the other part of the pocket bag to the seam allowance of the jet piece and then machine around the 3 sides to make a pouch. However I’m working with thick fabric, its not lined and it’ll be worn by a small thug. So I’m going to machine my back pocket bag piece directly onto the front panel to keep down the bulk and make it more sturdy.

Notice that I’ve done a very slight zig zag so that the stitches can stretch and won’t snap. Finally all the tacks can be removed.

So there you have it, a single jet pocket. I’m going to continue with this jacket and insert a zip for a future post.

Thanks for reading.

Rosie xx

2 thoughts on “Single jet pocket

  1. Can I see finish result when finished. Your so talented. Why buy clothes when you make them. Hope your all ok. Edith will be 1 soon wow where has the time gone. xx

    Like

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