Adding a zip guard to a jacket – New Look 6545

Last term at college I made myself a flight jacket, using New Look 6545. The fabric is canvas from Clover and Co. Fabrics. I’m ashamed to admit I bought fabric from the other side of the world when there’s loads of good fabric suppliers closer to home. The great thing about Clover and Co. Fabrics is that you can have the same print on multiple fabric bases and they have some wonderful bright prints. I’ve made Edith a matching jacket using Brindille and Twig’s zip jacket on French terry.

The zip

I couldn’t get a zip the exact length, so I used a zip which was slightly longer. As the zip is open ended, the excess tape needs to be cut down from the top. You can buy little stoppers to finish the top, but I’ve never done this myself as I’m a bit cack-handed with pliers doing this kind of thing. If you don’t get stoppers, you can fold the ends away. As long as the zip pull can’t come off, it will be fine. However this can make the top a little scratchy against your neck so I decided to add a zip guard.

The additional fabric pattern piece

I cut an extra piece of fabric along the selvedge edge. I cut it about 5 inches longer than the centre front opening and four inches wide. As my fabric is canvas, it’s quite sturdy but if you have a softer fabric you may want to consider adding an interfacing.

I folded the piece in half along the long edge with right sides together and bagged out the lower narrow end. This means I stitched across the bottom and turned the right sides out. This contains the raw edge and makes a nice crisp finish.

The rest of the strip I pressed with the cut edges matching.

Attach to the zip

On the left, I unpicked the zip a couple of inches. I used a pin to mark where the zip would finish and cut off the excess leaving an inch seam allowance above. The seam allowance was then folded back at an angle so that the excess zip teeth are hidden away (and removes the risk of pulling the zip pull off the tape).

I then pinned the zip guard to the under side of the zip down the whole length of the opening. At the top of the zip, I folded the extra zip guard forward and at an angle, then machined this little bit into place. The top of the zip is now tidy and completely secure.

I pinned this to the top of the opening and I machined the whole zip guard in place.

The rest of the jacket was completed as the instructions state.


And this is how the jacket looks finished.

The added benefit of the zip guard is that the zip is less likely to catch my clothes underneath when I fasten the zip.

Thanks for reading.

Rosie xx

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